Friday, 2 February 2018

Menswear Trends Autumn Winter 2018 - student work

Francesca Masi ©

Yves Cervantes ©

John Alexander Board ©

Picking out the commercial direction and buying appeal of themes ans styling details from the Catwalk Shows offering is something the fashion editors and Buyers do post the Catwalk shows each season - here are some commercial observations made by three of my current students on what they like and think might be liked by the high Street. 


Wednesday, 31 January 2018

Student work - Womenwear Fashion Trend Observations SS18 - week 4 Art Direction for Fashion

Student wallpaper from onsite Granary Road evening class © photography Schelay McCarter

The Spring Summer trend report was created by Eleonor Rossi as homework in week 4 of my art direction for fashion course - commercial selection of fashion trends that will sell this season is crucial for buyers from all sectors of the market, buying inspiration is taken straight from the international Catwalk shows - 

Trans - seasonal selection is the future.....reflects our global lifestyles as our planet contracts and weather patterns continue to cause consternation.

copy - Schelay McCarter

Tuesday, 9 January 2018

Top creative management agency Jed Root has stopped trading

Instagram is now the show case forum for creative talent and Jed Root is a casualty of this development - 

Long established creative management agency Streeters is still trading.....

Schelay McCarter 

What Went Wrong at Jed Root?

Top artist management agency Jed Root is closing its doors, leaving scores of artists and agents around the world struggling to secure unpaid fees and salaries. Now, Jed Root speaks exclusively to BoF on how his agency spiralled out of control after he sold it to Swiss group RPRT.

NEW YORK, United States — Top artist management agency Jed Root is closing its doors, leaving scores of artists and agents around the world struggling to secure unpaid fees and salaries.
The news comes amidst internal reports of unpaid debts and mismanagement by RPRT — led by chief executive officer Oliver Fiechter and chief financial officer Wolfgang Schmid — which acquired the agency from Root in June 2015. On Friday, less than two years later, all of the employees in the company’s offices in New York and Los Angeles were suddenly fired.
"I received a one line email from Oliver [Fiechter] at 1pm on Friday instructing me to dismiss all of the employees of Jed Root Inc," confirmed Root in an exclusive interview with BoF. Root says that he reminded Fiechter that he too was an employee of the company, and Fiechter informed him that he was also being fired.
It was an undignified ending for the company and its founder, who set up the company 28 years ago and built it into one of the industry's top artist management agencies. So how did things fall apart?
"Around October 2014, I started speaking with Oliver who was interested in investing in the company," says Root. "I was just tired and I needed some working capital. I wanted to go back to being an agent again and have someone else manage the business."
I received a one line email from Oliver [Fiechter] at 1pm on Friday instructing me to dismiss all of the employees of Jed Root Inc.
Eventually, Root and Fiechter settled on an outright acquisition, but Root says he was only paid $10,000 for the company at the time of the sale. RPRT also agreed to pay back a $1.6 million loan to a US bank by taking on debt from a Swiss bank, according to sources. The deal stipulated that Root would be remunerated in regular salary as well as earn out payments that were due to begin in 2017 based on the company's EBITDA performance.
Fiechter did not respond to BoF's email request for comment on Sunday. In a statement issued to Women's Wear Daily on Friday he wrote: “The legacies of Jed Root were too big and heavy. At the time of the acquisition, we bought a company based on profitable numbers. But after a review of an expert from the U.K., we recognised that Jed Root had — at the time of the transaction — an accumulated loss of [more than] $6.5 million. We did several cash injections to stabilise the business, unfortunately, without success. The Jed Root companies owe RPRT $3.6 million in loans and [more than] $4.5 million in management fees. The group liquidity of Jed Root based on our daily cash book is USD 90,000, therefore, I have to freeze the operative business by tomorrow and try to protect the debtors of all local subsidiaries of the Jed Root Group.”
But Root asserts that Fiechter had access to all financial information at the time of acquisition, and that RPRT simply did not conduct a detailed financial or operational due diligence and did not even visit all of the company's offices.
RPRT’s master plan was to to restructure the company both operationally and financially, and with this in mind, the new executive team at RPRT  took control of the company.  "Our goal is to become the leading access point to creative resources," said Fiechter in a interview posted on Medium in February 2016 which has now been removed.
But it was not to be. According to multiple sources inside the company, the restructuring of Jed Root Inc. was mismanaged. While RPRT attempted to implement a variety of new operational strategies, including a new software platform and a flexible payment system that promised to pay artists directly, none of these attempts to stem the company's problems actually worked. Staff were not actively managed by the Switzerland-based executive team and apart from sporadic meetings, communication was poor. The company’s finances were also allegedly being drained by RPRT's expensive hiring of management staff in Switzerland.
When things went from bad to worse, agents were also promised to be made owners in the business, presumably in an effort to retain key talent. But as it became clear that the Jed Root agency was losing money, several of the big-name artists and agents began leaving the agency, which began a negative spiral from which the company could not recover. The company suffered a further blow when a senior hair and makeup agent quit and set up a rival agency, taking several artists with her.
According to Root, the entire board of directors of RPRT has resigned over the actions of Oliver Fiechter, leaving him as the sole remaining board member.
"I didn't make any money out of this," says Root reflecting on the sudden turn of events. "I haven't been paid either."

Copy BOF - pls credit

Friday, 10 November 2017

Marni Resort Look Book SS18 - Quirky Italian Glamour

Marni appointed Francesco Risso as its new creative director in 2016, after Consuelo Castiglioni the co founder stepped down after more than 20 years. I was sent this Resort Look Book by Marni's press secretary Herve Ragot, before seeing that Risso previously designed for Prada I was about to write that the collection reminds me of PRADA !The pattern clash and feminine silhouette with asymetric fluting, mixing raw edges and layering with quirky Dressing Up box styling maintains the Marni girls individuality and confidence, Risso has successfully injected a flirty, geeky modernity to the luxury brand.

Copy Schelay McCarter
Photography - Marni

Wednesday, 1 November 2017

British Fashion Colleges innovation & talent showcase -

This small island has a plethora of Art Colleges, and a history of creative innovation and experimentation, from Edinburgh to London, our colleges are inspiring students to create wonderful new ways of dressing our bodies & challenging convention.
Take a look at some of the best - plucked out by the British Fashion Council for recognition and award. 

 The work of Mathew Thomas, Lloyd James Husband, Gabriella Sardena, Polly Thomas
Ed Littles work

Ed Little

Ed Little

Gabriella Sardena
Manchester school of Art and CSM Textiles MA Graduate Gabriella Sardena's work focuses on textiles and surface textures, combining colours and fabrics to create innovative looks and materials.
Gabriella Sardena, Ian Richardson, Harriet Crowther

Gabriella Sardena

Harriet Crowther

Harriet Crowther, Ian Richardson, Jacob Kane Weir

Harriet Crowther

Ian Richardson

Ian Richardson
Ian Richardson, who was awarded British Fashion Council sponsorship this year, combined 60s silhouettes with and 70s' "domestic consumerism" – resulting in a collection of colourful womenswear pieces featuring fabrics printed with catalogue pages. 

Lloyd James Husband

Mathew Needham

Polly Thomas

Polly Thomas

Sardena specialises in Womenswear at Central Saint Martins;
Crowther Specialises in Menswear at Sheffield Hallam University; 

Richardson specialises in Womenswear at the University of Westminster;
Weir specialises in Menswear at the Manchester School of Art;
Garratt specialises in Menswear Knitwear at Central Saint Martins;
Husband specialises in Menswear at the University of Westminster;
Needham specialises in Menswear Womenswear at Central Saint Martins

Thomas specialises in Womenswear at the Edinburgh College of Art.

Copy Schelay McCarter 
images - courtesy of the BFC