Monday, 28 February 2011

Milan - Pucci my favourite collection so far

Vanessa Paradis - Johnny Depps missus modelling my favourite dress

On quick inspection the show collection that stands out so far for me is Pucci. I love the lavish, glamourous, baroque sumptuousness of the collection, luxe velvets, satins and embellished details on a sexy flattering silhouette are a winning combination and shrewd investment buy if ones wants to look alluring, demure and fabulous.


JBAG electro band that played during the show 
The male models walked very swiftly - a rumour had been circulating that LFW designers were asking the models to walk faster so that iphone images could not be got as the quality is so poor.

1980s styling main influence in this collection

bold, bright and optimistic styling

primary colours mixed with geometrics, note the shoulder pads

Electro girl

stripes and pattern clash
Urban hoody with fake fur detail
note the skirt tiered fluting and cut out bodice

Riot of colour stripes and geometric pattern.
Pop art on a dress
Gangster styling - 
a flattering dress

new romantics - clean and lean hair
This collection is influenced by 1986 graphics and styling - 

stylish - KTZ wants you to stand out from the crowd - it is a young confident label.

The KTZ parade
KTZ is a collaboration between Koji Maruyama, Sasko Bezovski and Marjan Pejoski.

KTZ is a confident new label and they have every reason to be so already having the label selling in their own retail network of cult stores ‘Kokon to Zai’, combinging music and fashion, based in London and Paris.
Marjan and Koji studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins while Sasa was studying architecture. They are the business minds that stand behind the KTZ brand.
Pop art meet 1980s new romantics - this collection does not 'fade to Grey'
Music is an important part in this label's creative evolution. The catwalk show was a fabulous spectacle of colour and everyone was tapping their feet to the electro beat music from JBAG or mix tape from Peaches that accompanied the show. KTZ was my last show and helped to end a brilliant London Fashion Week on a high.
Thank you to everyone who invited fashiontent to their shows - it was an amazing week.
Fashion always rises to the occasion and reflects the survival instinct of human creativity - The week was buzzing with optimism on to look at Milan, Paris and New York. I won't alas be going - too much to catch up in here! 

Photography Schelay McCarter - please credit.

Sunday, 27 February 2011

LFW Day 6, Ones To Watch MEN - Asger Juel Larsen

Very rock and Roll !

show stopping detail - clever political messaging with sharks teeth!
check out those boots and great black leather jacket - where does he stock his collection please ? I know a few guys who would want to buy this
Sharks teeth top hat  - I like the chain mail effect knit gillet over the black denim jacket.

Perfect proportions on this coat, love the hat with it - so cool! I can see Russel Brand in this! 
flamboyant styling, clever references
leather and wool coat, good styling details 
references to American indians in the styling - so cool!
great styling
check out the back detail 
great coat here - like the leather trousers too - very rock and roll

Asger Juel Larsen, fashion fame beckons.....

 I really enjoyed the four shows presented by Vauxhall Fashion Scout on Wednesday afternoon in the Freemasons Hall, Covent garden. The last designer to show was Danish born Asger Juel Larsen with his Uncle Sam collection. I was blown away by the sheer flamboyance and originality of this talented designer. He did his MA at the London College of Fashion and gained a Harold Tillman CBE Scholarship soon after.
He also won joint  prize for an industry project with Turkish Luxe label Tween and reached the final stages  of the prestigious Mittlemoda Awards. As you can see Asger uses historic events as inspiration, he blends unusual materials to create a silhouette that is sharp and structured. If you look beneath the fabulously cool styling and clever political digs of this collection there are great clothes. This collection's styling is very rock and roll and would be great as a look for a band - I imagine many stylists will be clamouring to get to these clothes for editorial fashion shoots - I would like to see them in Dazed and LOVE magazine.I also tip Asger will be styling rock and roll musicians in the future, watch out Hedi Slimane  - Go and rule the fashion world Asger! 

Thank you to all of the great designers at Ones to Watch, we have so much talent in London.

Photography - Schelay McCarter - please credit

Bora Aksu - my vote for most original dress

Bora Aksu
I love this dress but wouldn't wear it - it is beautifully crafted and very original and will have influence on other designers. I can see Daphne Guinness looking amazing in this statement dress she has the confidence and style presence to carry it off.

I would wear the Bora Aksu dress below. Women want different qualities in their clothes depending on their lifestyle but one thing is for sure looking attractive is paramount to feeling good. Both these dresses would achieve this aim worn by the right people to reflect their own individual style penchant.

Bora Aksu

Saturday, 26 February 2011

Antonio Berardi - my vote for best dress

If I could choose one dress to buy - it would be this one so far from the London shows - 


Girls Aloud Kimberly Walsh at the show with her stylist

elegant draping so glamourous

striking black lace 

I love the floral detail on this velvet  dress - I adore the vivid pattern and rich colours
Vogue photography

Kimberly Walsh of 'Girls Aloud' sitting in the front row viewing the show

The crowds of fashionista's waiting outside for the show.
As I was unfortunately not able to get to the Ashley Isham show I sent along two of my students Laeticia Peyrano and Andrea Carraro to take photos and report back. I was very disappointed not to be able to get there as I really like Ashley Ishams work. 
The girls loved the show collection entitled Enchanted Forest.
Kimberley Walsh and stylist were front row at this glamourous show clearly looking for signature pieces for some concerts.The show was split into 4 parts, rich velvet florals, colourful jersey drapes, turquoise and emerald pastel satin chiffon gowns with grecian detailing and lastly bold metallic damasks in granite, silver and greys. The models wore a variety of Oriental styled and adorned head pieces adapted for each part of the enchanted forest theme.

The inspiration for this collection, (from press release)
'In the moon struck madness of the winter solstice, from deep within the magic snow covered forest, the fairy creatures of the night emerge from their slumber' 
Isham's Titania is dark and mysterious, with captivating eyes like a bird of prey, softened only by her otherwise clean visage adorned with a crown of flora.  
Her fairy attendants clad in lush tones of magenta, emerald, deep sapphire, crimson,and coral and granite are adorned with headpieces reminiscent of an imperial court from a bygone dynasty. 
Rich velvets of turquoise blue and forest green covered in deep florals prints, together with metallic brown and silver birch jacquard embellished with scale - like sequins, form the core of this seasons collection with black beaded and winter woollen lace applique entwining the fitted silhouettes like a creeper enveloping it's host.
The Autumn / Winter 2011/12 enchanted forest theme is evidently a provative, darker extension of ishma's earlier spring summer 2011 floral 'East of Eden'.

Thank you to Keziah for inviting me to this show

Photography unless otherwise stated by Laetitia Peyrano
Laetitia an ex student of mine is over here from her native France and has worked for Chanel in Paris as a 'paid' intern. Andrea from Italy is studying on my Art Direction evening class at Central Saint Martins currently.

LFW Day 6, Ones To Watch MEN - C/Bruerberg

Camilla has collaberated with electro band Royksopp
Camilla Bruerberg - an outstanding talent 
cool urban knit look - loved it !

Can see an androgyny in this look

Exquisite detail in this aztec style knit pattern , 

modern tribal element in her styling - urban warrior

80s styling, baggy & layered -

statement piece - brilliant construction - 

Camilla Bruerberg - outstanding

Camilla Breuerberg, the next Vauxhall Fashion Scout 'Ones to Watch' to show is the designer behind the label C/Bruerberg. She graduated from Oslo national Academy of the arts in 2008, and showed her debut collection as 'Debutant of the Season' at Oslo Fashion Week in 2010. Camilla's work focuses on a combination of knit and digital print. In addition to individual projects, Camilla has also collaborated with electro band Royksopp (the music of which is at the top of this post)
I really enjoyed her show.

Photography Schelay McCarter - please credit fashiontent